I fell in love with Belize about a million years ago. Ok. That's an exaggeration. I came here for the first time in February of 1996 for the second semester of my junior year in college. I was 21. I was an environmental science major, so I cared about environmental and ecological issues and figured an ecological wonderland would be a good place to spend a semester. Also, Belize beats the hell out of February in Indiana. It was bitter cold in Indiana when I left, and when the door to the plane opened and I stepped out onto the stairs, I almost fell down from the wave of heat and humidity. I know a lot of people don't care for hot and humid, but it's totally my jam, so that was already a check in the "yes" column.
A map of Central America. Belize is the top right with Guatemala bordering the west and south. Mexico borders the north.
The focus of the semester was Environmental and Cultural Anthropology. Ecologically we studied the country from a watershed perspective. Belize has an incredible variety of ecosystems, especially considering that it's the size of Massachusetts. Mountains run the western border of Belize. In the northern mountains is mountain pine ridge. Beautiful pine forest mountains full of crystal clear streams and waterfalls. The southern mountains are subtropical jungle. Our study started in the mountain pine ridge and then to the dry Savannah, down wide, meandering rivers to the mangrove-lined coasts and finally out to the sandy cayes (pronounced keys) and barrier reef. It's beautiful to understand a place by following the path of the water.
The mouth of the Monkey River
As an ecologist, it's really hard to not fall in love with a place so biodiverse. There is a lot of protected land here as it was decided early on to go in the direction of ecotourism, and there has been a big push to protect any number of endangered plant and animal species. The country also has an incredibly small population, so there is simply a lot of space. With somewhere in the neighborhood of 325,000, it has the population of a small US city spread around the size of a small US state. We have quite a few of the sexy animals here, and that always helps with conservation efforts. We have jaguars, two species of crocs, manatee, scarlet macaws, toucans, howler and spider monkeys, and whale sharks for the portion of the year they migrate through. We also have the second largest barrier reef in the world. I quickly fell in love with the land and water.
The lone Howler Monkey that showed up in our yard one day. He was probably a juvenile male. The male in a troupe will kick out the juvenile males when they get old enough to become competition.
The people are also really amazing. When I came to Belize I was in that sort of lost space that many of us find ourselves in during the college years. I had lost any kind of connection with God. I was disillusioned and frustrated with the state of the world and the culture and politics of the US. I came here and found kind and lighthearted people. Almost everyone here is so laid back. No hurries. No worries. There so much less stress and a genuine and joyful connection to God. It's simple and happy. There are quite a few different cultures and ethnic groups here, and for the most part everyone is accepting and appreciative of each other. In any case you don't see anything like the horrid racism in the US. I fell in love with all of it, with a host of different people, with myself, and I found a connection to God again, not a vengeful, angry God but a loving and joyful God.
One of the most beautiful people here. He's working hard to preserve his culture and pass that knowledge to the youth.
I was also exposed to a lot of the abuses of the US, the World Bank, and the IMF. I saw the dark outcomes of colonialism. I learned a lot about social justice and how we need to change. And a whole lot about economic inequality and blaming the victim. My eyes were opened, and I found a powerful passion to make changes that would help both people and the earth.
I sobbed the day I went back to the US at the end of that semester. I sobbed again - and harder - the day I had to go back to a regular classroom university in rural Indiana that fall. I spent the next 19 years trying to figure out how to get back here to live. I made several visits, and finally I just said to hell with it and made it happen. It didn't go at all how I expected. It wasn't at all what I expected. Living somewhere is different from visiting.
Belize is still beautiful. The people are still wonderful (well, mostly). It is still an ecological wonderland. I love hearing the sounds of the sea and the fishermen's boats. Every place has its challenges, though. No place is going to be perfect or solve all your problems. There will be challenging and frustrating moments. From trash to domestic violence, there are things that make me absolutely crazy here. It's hard to live in a culture you didn't grow up in. Sometimes you feel like an outsider.
I can always feel at home with the trees
Still, I'm undoubtedly staying. That's why I'm an immigrant. I used to refer to myself as an expat until I read what the difference really is. Expatriates are people who go to another country for an extended period with the intention of returning home. Immigrants are there to stay. A lot of people with no intention of returning refer to themselves as expats. I am sure that started because so many people are so anti immigrant. Of course at this point most people don't know the difference.
On the banks of the Monkey River
There is some great conservation work happening here. I have a friend keeping an eye on the crocodile populations. There are several groups protecting the vast numbers of bird species. Cockscomb Basin Jaguar Preserve and Wildlife Center is at the forefront of making sure the majestic cats have all they need to thrive. We fought together to get a forever ban on offshore drilling. There's an incredible coral breeding program to help revive our reef that has suffered under the weight of warming waters and irresponsible tour guides and tourists. They're finally cracking down on illegal fishing and illegal wildlife trade. There's a Manatee Man here who is doing wonderful work advocating for the host of things needed for manatee protection.
They look sweet when they're sleeping! This guy was rescued as a cub when his mother was killed. He was too young to survive on his own, so he was taken in by the wonderful people at the Belize Zoo, which is the only Zoo I will go to.
And it's still that lighthearted, laid back attitude. Everything is still so easy going. Whenever I go back to the states it just freaks me out. All the go, go, go and all the busy and all the aggression and all the insane consumption. There is no part of me that could ever go back to that. There's always music and dancing here and kids playing in the yards, the river, the beach, the jungle.
So far I have seen toucan, howler monkey, and jaguar in the wild (well, the howler was in our yard). We saw the mother jaguar with her cub crossing the road. That was a truly incredible experience. Now that the littles are getting a bit older, I'd like to get involved in volunteering with conservation groups. I'd also like to start some women's groups that focus on helping and healing current and former victims of domestic violence and sexual abuse. And of course I am always working to show parents another way of parenting that gives children the freedom and respect they deserve.
This tree is now right on the water due to erosion. It split in half from a lightening strike. The half that's still standing is below.
Life as an immigrant is a challenge to be sure, but I am so glad to live here. Belize is an unimaginably beautiful place. If you ever come to visit, be sure to come find me in Monkey River Town.
Just a few more favorite pictures
The semester abroad crew at the ancient temples. The abundance of ancient history is also amazing.
All images mine or from Pixabay.
I am a passenger on the ecoTrain! Check out @ecotrain to find more excellent writing from our brilliant, big hearted passengers!
