"When you make a mistake, the ocean gives you an instant reminder. You get punished. If golf clubs could shock you every time you hit the ball wrong, we'd probably learn how to play golf pretty well."
- Laird Hamilton, Famous Big Wave Surfer -
A true story from September, 2001.
This is an excerpt from my personal surfing diary, originally written as an email to a friend.
The surf was intimidating.
Image courtesy of Oliver Raatz and http://unsplash.com
The surf was Killer Big today...
I had to battle my way to make it outside in front of the Carlsbad power plant. It was tough getting the measure of the waves, because they were quite chaotic. The tide was high, and reflections were bouncing back off of the rocks.
As things turned out, I got caught inside several times and was "worked" repeatedly.
When I finally started moving on a big right (the wave was maybe a head and a half high), I was well lined up and traveling at a good clip. I can tell when I'm moving fast, because my board starts to sing to me... Ah, but that's another story...
I took my time getting up.
Just as I started to get to my feet, I hit a rather large bump that was coming up the face of the wave as it crested. Sadly, it threw off...
That wave would have been one sweet ride if I hadn't gotten pitched!
As the day turned out, despite my best efforts, I only had one rather short ride. I decided I would ride it all the way in and call it a day.
Overall, I got my exercise. :) On a really rough day like this, with such large waves, I was just glad to get out alive.
I was glad to get out alive.
Image courtesy of Nathan Dumlao and http://unsplash.com
Maybe tomorrow will be cleaner?
We can only hope.
FIN
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