Learning To Stand - A True Surfing Story

"Stand up for what is right even if you stand alone."
- Suzy Kassem -

One day out of the blue,

my friend Walter stops by my office.

"I have an old surfboard I want to give you." he announces. "It’s in my car. Come on out and take a look."

I'm a bit shook up. Will I have to face my fears?

We go down to Walter’s VW Microbus.
Image courtesy of Nick Baker and http://unsplash.com

During lunch break,

we go down to Walter’s VW Microbus. True to his word, there is a 6’8" egg waiting for me.

Having now had time to get used to the idea, I find that I'm delighted. I've wanted to learn to stand for a long time. Just like that, my last excuse is gone.

That was a month ago.

Since then, I've diligently worked at this daily.

"Look out for me; I don't know what I'm doing!" I call out to nearby surfers.

There was a 6’8" egg waiting for me.
Image courtesy of Daniel Ruswick and http://unsplash.com

I knew learning to surf was no easy proposition. Damn, if this board isn't too short...

"You need a longer board, a ten-footer" everyone tells me.

"Thanks" I reply, "I know... but this is the board I have. I’ll just keep working the problem."

At times,

I am discouraged. Day in and day out, it's all I can do to get around on my egg. Occasionally, I'll catch a belly ride.

It's all I can do to get around...
Image courtesy of Tim Marshall and http://unsplash.com

Ever so slowly,

I learn to get on my knees. Once in a blue moon, I pop up. Then immediately, I drop.

You're sure to love my "standing joke;" it's what I repeat to anyone who will listen.

"I guess learning to surf is a matter of gradually extending the time between when you stand up and when you fall down."

This is a red-letter week!

God sent me a beautiful left this Monday.

I paddle like mad, and catch it.

Turning left, I manage for the first time to stand up long enough to really know that I am standing.

I can feel the balance. Instead of wiping out, the wave dies out. For the very first time, I deliberately fall backwards off the board.

I deliberately fall backwards off the board.
Image courtesy of shane becker and http://unsplash.com

Total time?

Maybe five seconds. But, what a wonderful five seconds they have been!

Several discouraging days ensue.

Lest anyone think this was a fluke, I repeat the performance on Thursday, Once more, I stand and ride a ways, this time almost making it over a second lip and another drop. Though I stall, hope springs eternal.

On Friday I ride another,

standing and delivering. I am beginning to believe that if I can only get some more consistent good waves to ride, I will be standing much more in the near future.

What will become of body boarding? Some folk I know have told me that after transitioning from a body board to a surfboard they will never go back. I’m not sure I believe that; it is hard to believe that I could ever abandon something that has given me so much joy. However, I guess I will have to reserve judgement until I have spent some more time on my feet.

Standing is a new experience for me.
Image courtesy of Joschko Hammermann and http://unsplash.com

Though I've ridden many waves on my bodyboard,

standing is a new experience for me. It reminds me of a favorite passage of scripture:

"Now to Him who is able to keep you from stumbling, and to make you stand in the presence of His glory blameless with great joy, 25 to the only God our Savior, through Jesus Christ our Lord, be glory, majesty, dominion and authority, before all time and now and forever. Amen."
- Jude 24-25

_FIN

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