Here's another true "surfing adventure" story.
My story is about one special birthday week, more than sixteen years ago...
Like yesterday's story, this story takes place at the same spot — a reef break known by the locals as "Terramar." But there are a few differences. I'm a few years older, I'm no longer a bodyboarder — I've graduated to stand-up surfing — and I'm considerably further out from shore.
Well overhead, steep, and hollow...
Photo courtesy of Teddy Kelley and http://unsplash.com
I invite you once again
to come with me, in the Wayback Machine, to the late fall of the year 2000.
The Wayback Machine via https://commons.wikimedia.org
Happy Surf Day To Me, A.D. 2000
Yesterday was my birthday. (The dreaded "Big Five-Oh").
Now, I know that God knew it was my birthday, but I didn't expect such a spectacular birthday present... Terramar was fabulous. It was, as they say, "really going off." And hardly anyone was there.
The waves yesterday at Terramar were glassy, uncrowded, and consistent. I kept getting one great left after another. My birthday surf yesterday was my best day overall, maybe ever. Waves were running anywhere from waist to shoulder high, with an occasional head high set.
Hardly anyone was there.
Photo courtesy of Tim Marshall and http://unsplash.com
Today is almost as good!
Today (Thursday) is almost (but not quite) as good overall. Even so, I enjoy a couple of stand-out waves today. I'm surprised and delighted by two lefts that, individually, are even better than any of the waves I had yesterday on my birthday. I will never forget them.
The second of the two lefts is well overhead, steep, hollow, and takes me from the point of the reef almost to the beach. My only regret is that I don't have any of this on video. Still, I won't forget the next best thing...
A couple of girls paddle out...
Photo courtesy of Terrell Woods and http://unsplash.com
These waves are so good, in fact,
that later during my session I am surprised by a couple of girls who paddle out. One says to me:
"We saw you on those two lefts - those were definitely the waves of the day."
Now, that puts a big smile on my face.
Well overhead, steep, and hollow...
Photo courtesy of Tim Marshall and http://unsplash.com
Friend, if you don't surf, you're missing out...
Why not surprise me? Let me see you out at the break some morning when I least expect it.
Thanks for your time and attention.
I'm here on Steemit because of you, my readers. I wouldn't be here if it weren't for you!
This post is intended to count towards @dragosroua's Challenge30.
I have very eclectic interests and hope, over time, to write about all of them.
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