AN ARCTIC ISLAND RETREAT – and one of the most extreme places in Europe

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Imagine spending a week-end on a small arctic island in northern Norway. Companied by up to 100.000 seabirds who will guarantee a noisy, smelly and extremely wild experience.

We were two people staying overnight at the lighthouse on the island Hornøya. The island is situated one kilometer outside Vardø, in northern Norway. In the Barents sea, which makes it the easternmost place in Norway. 70º north and 31º east. A small island, uninhabited by humans, but in some periods it can be inhabited by close to 100.000 seabirds!


Hornøya is easy to reach. Only a 10-12 minutes boat ride away from Vardø. Boat tours are operated daily during the season – April to September. Both as day tours and tours for staying over night.


Vardø lighthouse on the island of Hornøya, has been guiding many seafarers for years. Spread out on the island there are remains of German WWII buildings, adding a dimension of history to the place. According to our boat driver, the island has one of Norway's largest seabird colonies. It is the birds which makes the island famous. Nature here is extreme. It is wild, harsh and almost without a human touch. Except for the landing pier for the boat and the lighthouse buildings. We had sun and no wind. Nature was kind to us. But easy to imagine how a winter storm in the darkness will feel like…


From the boat driver we learned that the island is a nature reserve. Even it is an uninhabited island, some biologists and scientist does stay there occationally. But we were two people alone in an arctic bird paradise. Nobody else were there.


Staying so close to the birds, we came very close to them. Watching them fly off to catch food, was an occupation going on all the time. Walking from the pier was a smelly and noisy experience. Passing dead birds, or what was left, wondering how that happened. It is most important to pay close attention to to where you put your feet… It felt as being invating there lives. Even on a distanse we had the feeling of being at a live concert!


Since none of us were «profestional» birdwathers or biologists, we checked Wikipedia and for information on the variety of birds. We learned that the island is hosting approximimately 100.000 seabirds and up to 11 breeding species. On the bird cliff there are: Common Guillemot, Kittiwake, Atlantic Puffin and Razorbill. During the breeding season it is possible to see the White-taled Eagle hunting the birds on the cliff. The steep mountainsides hosts a total of more than 40,000 pairs of ales, lomvi, crutches, groves, polarlomvi, large boulders, teist and peat bogs. But there are a lot more species to be found. In addition to birds there are seals and also Beluga whales in the summer.


The accommodation offered is comfortable. There is a well equipped kitchen, good bedrooms and a living room. Just remember to stock up with food! It is selfcatering. And the view is spectacular. Since we went in august, it was still light most of the night. We just missed the midnight sun.


A stay of a few days here and you are garrantied close encounter with nature.


U.J

Kristiansand, Norway

All the photoes are mine, Ulla Jensen (flickr, Instagram and facebook)


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