A few weeks ago I returned from a 4 day visit to the capital of Hungary. I was together with my sister and her husband. They have been here many times and therefore excellent guides to the well known places, but also to some hidden gems. My brother in law, Franz is half Hungarian and has spend many summer vacations in Budapest. To have spent these 4 days together with him and my sister was not only a lesson in Hungarian history and culture, but also the history of his family and why he was born in Denmark.
The Jewish district is the smallest in Budapest, but it has the highest population density. Since we were staying in this district we experienced that it is a lively neighborhood. No matter what time of day or night we walked the streets, they were full of people and activity. There are so many narrow streets, passages and alleyways connecting to the larger streets. It is here we found the most interesting boutiques, cafes,street food, street art and some quite unique watering-holes.
In my opinion the Jewish district is one of the most exciting neighborhoods in Budapest. This is some of the places Franz took us on our first day. A walk he called «an alternative tour».....
Dohány Synagoque
The district is full of historical remains from the Jewish community that once thrived here. We went to the Dohány Synagoque before doing anything else. The tall Moorish towers with red and white stripes reveal at a long distance the location of the largest synagoque in Europe. (second largest in the world). The interior is sparkling gold and can seat 6,000 people. The whole complex is complete with a cemetary, a memorial garden and museum, where one can learn about the Holocaust and the Budapest Ghetto that existed in this area.
The mourning arrow
Outside, Imre Varga's mourning arrow (1991) stands crying his steel tears in memory of the 600,000 Hungarian Jews who died during WWII. There is a tear for each person. The names on each one of them is engraved on the tear. To look at the beautiful interior of the synagoque is really a contrast to the memorial and the tears of steel. Reading the names was a reminder of the horrors of WWII. Franz told me that his grandfather was serving as a soldier during the war. He was in Russia, but chose to desert and walked all the way back to Hungary. He never knew his grandfather.
We had to taste the famous, typical Hungarian goulash soup. Since we were taken on an «alternative tour» we had to eat street food. Delicious Hungarian dishes are served here, but also hamburgers, thai-food etc. as well. This place is located in a ruined courtyard that looks like it hasn't been maintained for years! But the quality of the food is excellent!
Szimpla Kert ruin pub
Then it was time to visit a ruin pub. I had never heard about it before and wasn’t aware that «ruin pub» really meant that the pub is located in a «ruin»!
All the photos are from the ruin pub named Szimpla Kert. It is one of the most famous in Budapest. Located in a backyard that made us feel as if we were entering a lush garden. «Kert» means garden and this kind of «kerts» are very popular in Budapest!
This concept of establishing bars in old buildings is a new idea, but the courtyards and buildings are old, abandoned buildings that has lacked maintainance for years. After WWII and the Holocaust, many people left the area. The result was a lot of abandoned and neglected buildings. The idea of the ruin pubs started around 2001/2002. Some young people were looking for cheap places to drink. Some of them came up with the idea of turning the buildings into bars.
They are furnished with interior found in attics and in basements and decorated with graffiti from local artists.The buildings have not been refurbished. I don't think I saw any new piece of interior. Everything is old and well used. Just look at the old bath tub! I even tried to sit in it!
The Jewish district might be the district with the highest number of street art! Almost every street we walked that afternoon, revealed gorgeous street art. Many are inspired by Hungarian history. I think that if you want to explore the street art scene in Budapest, it will be an exploration ot the city's culture and history. There was one in particular that Franz wanted to show us.
Man of the Year
The «Man of the Year» mural commemorates the freedom fighters as noble heroes. This mural is a copy of the Boris Chaliapin's famous Time Magazine cover from the uprising in 1956. This freedom fighter is representing the heroes of the Hungarian Revolution. Since 1945 Hungary had been under Russian control. But on October 23rd 1956 the people took to the streets in an uprising against the Russian control and communism. They did not manage to overthrow the Russians. Even they didn't succeed in that attempt, they won some reforms that left them with liberalism in some cases. (This mural was painted in 2016 – exactly 60 years after the publication in Times Magazine).
Franz told us that in 1956 during the uprising, many Hungarians fled to other European countries. His father who lived in Budapest at that time, fled to Denmark, where he married a Danish woman. But his grandmother stayed in Budapest. Every year during his childhood and as a young man, he came to Budapest to visit his grandmother.
She taught him the language, the culture and the history of the country and his family. His knowledge was invaluable to us. He could tell about small and big changes in the city and the culture over the years.
Rubik's Cube
This cube is well known I should think. It has entertained millions of people over the years. It was a Hungarian named Erno Rubic who invented the cube. «There is allways a solution – and not jus one» - just like the cube.
At this little place we made a stop for a coffee. A small and well hidden cafe in a small alley. The cakes at the fine cafes are delicate, but this little cafe definitely also has inviting cakes. Although Franz knows most places in this district, he had not yet discovered this little treat.
I don’t think I have learned so much about a place in such a short time before. Thanks to Franz. We did spend the next few days to visit the main sights as the Parliament, Danube River, visiting a thermal bath etc. But this first day and first impressions of the city, stands out as something special. I am sure I will be back.
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