Yazd is a picturesque desert city located in central Iran, quite a distance from the main cities but on a nice loop from Shiraz to Esfahan. After visiting the ancient cities of Persepolis and Pasagarde I got on a 5 hour bus to Yazd. I was very excited as Yazd promised to be one of the unforgettable sights on my journey. Its mud brick buildings, Persian Art and Zoroastrian Fire temples surely would not disappoint!!!
This trip was quickly turning into so much more than I could ever have imagined.
Join me for some experiences on a trip from from the UAE to Syria. There were highlights in each place that will stay with my forever. I am writing now many years later but I would like to share some of the memories that have stayed with me. Travel is so much fun, if you get the chance, get out and explore this great world.
BAM
Not far from my mind was the terrible tragedy that, at the time, was still unfolding in the frontier city of BAM further to the East. In the middle of the night on December 26th 2003 a 6.6 magnititude earthquake struck the city killing around 26 thousand people and injuring countless more as the mud brick buildings of the city liquefied and literally drowned the people in their sleep.
The trip to Yazd
On the way to Yazd I fell asleep on the bus. My phobia of earthquakes was on my mind as I headed east. As the bus went over a bump in the road I woke with a start and literally jumped up in the air and let out a shout. I thought it was a quake!
Yazd
It was late at night when I arrived at the bus station. I got a taxi to my hotel behind the Amir Chakhmaq Complex. My room was very basic so I headed out for an evening stroll, some food and some pictures.
It was absolutely freezing and after some nice grub (which I later found out was grilled liver) I headed back to the hotel/hostel for some rest. I had a busy day ahead visiting the sights.
Yazd was a brief stop in my journey on the way to Esfahan "The most beautiful city in the world". I would be in Esfahan for the last few nights and new years celebrations. (Little did I know that it was not new year in Iran)
The hotel I was staying in Yazd was frequented by backpackers travelling around the orient and was quite basic but it was the sights I was here for.
Top Travel Tip: When doing this kind of trip dont stay in the best hotels. Its much easier to strike up a conversation in backpacker places both with locals and with other tourists.
Amir Chakhmaq Complex
The first sight on my list was this Hosseinieh or congregation hall for Shia commemoration ceremonies. It's famous as one of the finest proportioned such structures in Iran and in the evening and at night the alcoves capture the light in the most magical and mystical way.
Amir Chakhmaq Complex
Masjed-e Jameh
The most famous mosque in Yazd is the Masjed e Jameh. Every inch was crafted by dedicated artists, it's a magnificent specimen.
Entrance to the Masjed-e Jameh
The towering 48m-high minarets adorned with inscriptions from the 15th century are an impressive sight.
Masjed-e Jameh
Geometric artwork and beautiful calligraphy adorned every inch of this structure
No place was left bare
The vibrant blues even on a dull December day were spectacular
The Qibla design is one of the finest I have seen across the Muslim world, from Granada to the Taj Mahal
Historic Yazd
The old city of Yazd is one of the oldest towns on earth. A claim I was to hear quite a bit in my travels throughout the region. A striking feature of this mud brick labyrinth of winding lanes are the windtowers rising above domed roofs. In the desert heat these natural air-conditioning units have been functioning for thousands of years.
Natural Air Conditioning
It was exciting exploring the narrow streets and haggling at the shops for gifts. I got the most beautiful enamel inscribed vases in the market here (for a good price)
A mud brick lane
His and Her Knockers
While exploring the narrow streets I cam across a very unusual site.
Why was there two knockers on many doors?
This is a custom in Yazd where the masculine door knocker is rigid and heavy and makes a strong sound. The feminine door knocker is curly and makes a lighter sound.
The difference is so that inside the house the residents will know who is knocking and following Islamic custom a member of the appropriate sex will answer the door.
I also found Alexanders Prison in the old city. An inscription by the door referred to a well in the courtyard which had its bottom used as a prison by Alexander the Great. The building is now a school. Rumour has it that Alexander the Great used it as a dungeon, but these claims of this are doubtful.
Dowlatabad Garden
From the Al Hambra in Spain to the Taj Mahal in India Persian garden styles and philosophy have inspired the Islamic world. This fine example exhibits some of the best features and is connected by a series of irrigation canals enclosed by ornate architectural design.
A rectangular pool that provides refreshment during the long hot summer
Beautiful Persian Design Stained Glass Windows
Geometric Ceiling Patterns
Lush gardens
Lush gardens
The 33 meter tall wind tower overlooking the complex
The Water Museum
In Yazd, in the heart of the desert, there is a museum dedicated to water and the unique methods that have developed over centuries to survive and blossom in even during the long hot summer. A visit to the water museum will explain all about Qanat, an elaborate tunnel system used to extract groundwater in this region.
Qanats run through many of the wealthy old houses in Yazd, collecting in pools in basements known as sardob. As the coolest part of the house, these rooms were often beautifully decorated and several fine examples exist in Yazd's old traditional hotels today. The qanats (there are many running through each town) are the reason why the wealthiest districts are always closest to the mountains – to be closest to the freshest water.
Source: https://www.lonelyplanet.com/
We haven't even gotten to the best parts of Yazd yet...
The Zoroastrian Fire Temple
Before travelling to Iran I had never heard of Zoroastrianism. Even when I visited Naqsh Rostam near Shiraz, where there was a fire temple, I didn't appreciate what Zoroastrianism was. I had never heard of it before this trip.
The Fravahar Symbol shown below is carved based on the principles and teachings of Zorastria, the prophet.
The Zoroastrian Fire Temple shown below was built in 1934 and enshrines the Atash Bahram, meaning “Victorious Fire”, dated to 470 AD.
The Eternal Flame inside
Towers of Silence
What an appropriate name for a place. In all my travels this is one of the most unforgettable places I have been. The feeling here is just impossible to describe.
The guide book said to take a bus but as I was feeling lazy I got a taxi. It was just as well as it was not on the best side of town and quite a way from the bus stop. I read an interesting story in the hostel about this place, later that evening written by a Japanese tourist who visited the site the day before....
Zoroastrians believe that as soon as the breath has left it, the body becomes impure. Death is considered to be the work of Angra Mainyu, the embodiment of all that is evil, whereas the earth and all that is beautiful is considered to be the pure work of God. Contaminating the elements (Earth, Air, Fire and Water) with decaying matter such as a corpse is considered sacrilege.
Source: http://www.bbc.co.uk/religion/religions/zoroastrian/ritesrituals/funerals.shtml
Below the ceremonial mountain there is the ruins of a Zoroastrian village where peoples families could stay for the 4 days and 4 nights while a corpse was exposed in the tower.
I would be a tough climb in the summer heat to take a loved one for the ceremony in the tower.
Ruins in the Zoroastrian village
The view from the top
The entrance to the tower. Only selected individuals could go in during the ceremony but now anyone can visit and see the well in the center where the bones that were left were put after the body had been there for 4 days and 4 nights.
The Japanese Tourist
When I got back to my hotel after visiting the Towers of Silence I sat in the common room in the lobby. There was a guest book on the table where travellers were leaving stories and comments about their trip. This seemed interesting and the last post caught my eye. A Japanese tourist had visited the Towers of Silence the previous day to take some photographs with his SLR camera when he was confronted inside by bandits who who wanted to rob him. "He fended them off with his knife".
Oh my god! I am so glad I got a taxi there and didn't wear my orange fleece that day :)
I was only in Iran for a week but there was too much to cover in just one post on Iran. I have split the trip to Iran over several posts. Yet to come are highlights from Esfahan.
Thank you for reading this. I write on Steemit about Blockchain, Cryptocurrency, Travel and lots of random topics.
All Images are from my personal library.
Previous Posts in this Series
- Life After Graduation...only begins when you leave the country
- Life After Graduation...The UAE
- Life After Graduation... Experiences in The UAE
- Life After Graduation...Visit to Oman
- Life After Graduation... Dune Bashing in the UAE
- Life After Graduation... Trip to Iran
- Life after graduation...Tour of Persepolis and Pasargadae