When it comes to traveling through Europe, Romania is a fairly diverse country. While it has its share of pretty mountains – the Romanian bit of the Carpathians -, several other European countries also do, unusually larger and more of them. Beautiful, worth a visit, but hardly unique. What is unique, and in this case a quite special place, is the Danube Delta.
The Danube, Europe's second-longest river, located in Central and Eastern Europe, flows through 10 countries. Originating in Germany, the Danube flows southeast for 2900 km before emptying into the Black Sea.
The Danube delta is, coincidentally, the second largest river delta in Europe, and the best preserved on the continent. With the lagoons of Razim–Sinoe, located south of the main delta, the total area of the Danube Delta is around 5200 km2 or 2000 sq miles.
The Razim–Sinoe lagoon complex is geologically and ecologically related to the delta proper and the combined territory is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. For more on this basic, boring data, you can read Wikipedia.
The short version: the Danube splits into 3 main arms connected by a web of canals, lakes, ponds with occasional solid ground. It has been inhabited for a long time, and most parts of it are only accessible by boat. Basically a whole lot of wetland, with huge biological diversity. A significant part of the locals are lipovans, Old Believers, mostly of Russian ethnic origin, and they have a unique local culture, shaped by the delta and their origin. Their food is different as well, and very diverse, you can eat anything there, as long as it is fish.
The disadvantages of wetland wilderness? Mosquitoes. Lots and lots of mosquitoes. But they are mostly active an hour before and after sunset, so if you avoid them in that period you’ll do fine. And anyway, a mosquito bite isn’t the end of the world. And off course, being so biologically diverse, other creepy crawlies.
The advantages? Lots of birds, if you like watching; lots of fish, if you like fishing and/or eating. Peace, quiet, and messing about in boats. Speedboats to cover ground, rowboats for the peace and quiet bit. That is, if you can row.
This is a thoroughly satisfying activity for me, as the boat goes from one canal to the other, occasionally over a lake, and you never know what is beyond the next bend. The banks are covered with trees and reeds and cattail and many other plants, the water surface is covered with waterlilies and ducks and swans and such.
There are many ways to find accommodation in the Delta. For the hard-core fishermen, the tent is where it’s at. You can camp next to the best fishing spots, and be up at the crack of dawn, walk 10 feet and start fishing. Brave the rain and the mosquitoes if you must, but the catch is what matter. Please do not leave any trash behind. Yeah … that sounds… great.
On the other end of the spectrum, there are the newly built 5 star resorts, where the comfort is great but, in my view, it lacks the feel of the delta. You can go to a 5 star resort anywhere. And anyway, they are ecologically unfriendly and owned by corrupt politicians (otherwise they could not have built them there) and should not be encouraged.
Well where do you stay, you may ask? Glad you asked. The last few times I went with a group of friends we rented a pontoon boat. This is a largish houseboat moored on the side of a canal in the middle of the action. It has sufficient comforts, with keeping the wild feel of the Delta. There are no villages nearby or other settlements, so you have to bring everything you want with you. There’s no popping over to the store, the bar or whatever.
The internet is spotty at best, so you may be able to send an occasional email if you must but it is a good place to disconnect.
It is an all-inclusive affair, which means all the meals are covered – I hope you like fish, fresh caught that very day – and also the drinks – this being water, Romanian plum brandy and serviceable but not great red and white wine. Anything else you must bring with you.
The bedrooms and bathrooms are small, very small, but clean and with running water, which is all you need really. There is a common room which is large enough and outdoor seating on top of the boat. All one could ask for to spend a few quiet days.
Speedboats and drivers are also included, so the days are spend going about canals and lakes, watching birds, fishing if you like (personally I don’t and also worms creep me out) and occasionally to a deserted beach or two –either on the sea or on some island on the Razim lake.
The beaches are something you won’t find in Romania’s mostly overcrowded sea-side towns. Off course, empty beaches are not for everyone. No people, no beach bars, just a stretch of sand and the sea, unmanaged, full of seashells and twigs and driftwood.
There are birds on the beach
And if you are lucky horses (although don't get to close)
You can also pick seashells
The nights are spent – well however you like on the boat. Mostly talking, or with various games and such if one wants. And star-gazing, if that’s your thing, great place for it, being in the middle of the delta, far away from settlements, with little light pollution. I don't have a picture of the stars, but take my word for it.
The trip is not so much exciting or as it is restful, a good way to just get away from the noise of hectic everyday life and clear one’s head.
All photos are mine or from friends, from the trip, in case you were wondering