There's something really fun about traveling without plans or schedules.
It leaves you free and open to do pretty much whatever you want whenever. Traveling like this isn't for the weak of heart or those prone to stressing out. Because of that freedom you're always researching and asking others in the hostel what's good and where to go. Mornings are spent huddled over a computer figuring out the next step. This particular morning I stumbled upon something I never thought I would in the heart of central America. The Costa Rica Craft Brewing Company, a full on craft brewery with tours and everything. The only problem, it had closed for some reason the previous day. I was too late...or was I?
The hostel owner heard my plight and picked up the phone. She was good, real good. I soon found myself labeled an international photojournalist and on the phone with their PR person, Fabiana. I don't consider myself such as I feel that label is for those who do deep, meaningful work in an attempt to change the world, but sometimes you have to go with the flow in order to get what you need.
Her directions were simple, at least to her.
'Two stops before the end of the line you'll come to a soccer field. The station where you want to catch the bus is on the south side about 100m where you get off the first bus. The bus you have to take to get to us is one of three lines. You'll have to get off next to a bunch of unused greenhouses with white roofs. We're across from an old farm, kind of in the middle of nowhere' Sounds simple, right? Looking back, it actually was, but at the time it was a bit more of an adventure. The most interesting part was catching the second bus as I couldn't find any of the line names she had mentioned. But one bus driver was patient enough to listen through my bad Spanish and look at small pictures of Google Maps and figure out where I needed to go.
The Costa Rican Craft Brewing Company brewery really was in the middle of nowhere
Right where she said it was going to be. Walking up to the place I had a serious case of dejavu. It was almost like being back in Milwaukee. Cargo doors in the front, logo in faded paint, 90's music blasting from inside, and the sound of muffled voices shouting stuff at each other over everything. It was like being back home, except that I was in a mountain valley in Cartago, Costa Rica. It made me wonder if craft breweries were the same everywhere the world over. Something I might just have to check out.
Fabiana greeted me with a huge smile which I couldn't help but return.
Apparently the reason why the tours had stopped was because they were moving to a bigger location. After only 3 years of brewing demand had outstripped their product and 13,000liters a month just wasn't enough anymore. You can't help but happy about something like that. For a small brewery to come from out of nowhere, stand up against the bureaucracy and the big guy in town, then kick ass and take names, it's just awesome. You see, before the CRCBC came about there was only one game in town, the monopoly of Cerveceria Costa Rica. Any and all Costa Rican beers came from the same spigot. For any true lover of beer to see that an do nothing, well, it would be a sin.
Everything started with their first beer, Libertas, literally translating to liberty.
One of their two staple beers this is their attempt to transition Costa Ricans from their everyday beers to something a little tastier. Not too bold nor too tame. Named so for a couple reasons, the biggest being the breaking of the monopoly, it also represents the spirit of the Costa Rican people who believe strongly in all freedoms. A very tasty golden ale from nose to finish it represents the style amazingly. Airy whisps of honey and apple, a mellow sweet medium smooth body with notes of grain and fruit, and a touch lingering bitter made me want to keep on drinking even after the glass was empty.
The real show winner, literally, is their Segua, a tasty red ale which is their second staple.
Published in numerous top beers books around the world it also won an silver medal in a 2011 Latin American beer competition. Did I mention that they don't export? And that that was the first year it was released? Which means that beer tasters had to seek them out in Costa Rica to get a taste, and they found out about it fast. You know it has to be good if people work so hard to get a bottle of it. A light fruity hopp nose with bits of banana and caramel, the medium body brings more caramel notes as well as some more grassy hopps, and finishes strong with a crisp bitter that leaves you smacking your lips wanting more.
Of course a tasting couldn't be complete without tasting some of their seasonals.
There was one that seriously had me almost in tears it was so good. Their double chocolate stout. My tasting notes started with two words, 'wow, wow.' Brewed with pure, pure chocolate from the Telemanca region of Costa Rica from a farm I actually got to visit, this beer was amazing. A very light dark chocolate nose hides the strong blast of creamy dark chocolate that rushes your palate and then fades like fog under the sun in a way that makes you want to take another drink. Which is dangerous, because at 11.5% ABV you feel it fast. The goal of this beer, from the brewers mouth, was to avoid the coffee flavors that distract from the chocolate, and man did they succeed. The only sad part being that their seasonals can only be had in the brewery and once brewed will likely never be brewed again.
The craft brewing movement is growing worldwide, even in places you wouldn't have orginally thought.
There's even a craft beer festival in April that the CRCBC started (but they no longer run) in order to build a community. Last year boasted about 7,000 people, which is crazy to think about when you consider the population of the country. As with all new movements there is a lot of misinformation out there about how to brew and about what is good and what isn't and the media usually isn't very helpful. All you can do to fight the ignorance is to educate, which CRCBC does with zeal.
The people at the CRCBC were fantastic and their beer phenomenal. Basically everything you would expect to get at a brewery where the people are passionate about what they do and love what they make...and of course love to drink it. If you ever happen to be in Costa Rica look them up. At the max it will be a couple hours on a bus, but what awaits you at the end, well worth the effort.
Originally written by me for Alcoholmanac Magazine. A publication I used to be the managing editor for. Good times :)
