Hooray you sexy readers! How are you? Check my boat travel in between islands on the great Pacific Ocean.
Hello, hello my beautiful readers!
Before I even start I'd like to thank you all for the massive support on the story telling posts, I've never imagined that you would like to read about all the craziness I put myself into. Sometimes even I laugh about the insanity. I'd also like to apologize for not giving the attention you guys deserve; I've got dozens of great posts written by you that I'd like to read, but time here is getting insanely scarse. Gosh.
But here we are again, for yet another crazy adventure in this world of ours. Isn't it great? Eveytime I think I've had enough, I read my travel diaries and something new comes out of it. This time though nothing unexpected happened, uff! Well... sort of.
This post is about a 10 hour boat trip from Puerto Cisnes to Chiloé in Chile. You'll read about the small mishaps, the cool things along the way, tips and how this broke miserable backpacker, me just in case you haven't noticed, managed to pay for the trip. Enjoy!
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Obs.: This story is part of a bigger journey that I plan to tell you one day. Since it would be incredibly long I've decided to release parts of it, featuring the most crazy bits. It'll not follow an order of events, but I'll put it in a way that you can read as parts of a book. Hope you enjoy.
This happened when I was hitchhiking Argentina and Chile in summer 2017. Carrying only the essentials and little money for the journey. I had left Buenos Aires in early January with the main goal to reach Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the americas. Plan was plain an simple: Work if needed, camp, hitchhike all the way, have loads of fun and let my desire guide the way.
I've written on my travel diary.
Up and down goes the boat's porthole, the blue waters of the Pacific mix with the sky. Sometimes we are cutting through mountainous islands and, sometines, the coast is a small green line on the distance. Departure from Puerto Cisnes should have been at 0600 AM, however pontuality seems to not work, so we've left at 0700 AM. I'll go to the deck now, I'll write later.
February 15th, 2017. On that cold and dark morning I finished yet another chapter of my grand hitchhiking trip, it was time to leave Puerto Cisnes and continue on the journey; I left a small thank you note on the desk of the shed I lived for five days, closed the door, dressed my backpacks and headed to the bay. The water was calm that day with no wind at all, which is not common near the cordilleras. On the port, the boat's lights were reflecting on the water and the workers were already loading up cars and trucks into the cargo decks. It was cold to the bones.
Our departure was schedule for 0600 AM, thus I presented myself some minutes before thinking that it would be a good idea; plus I wanted to find my french friends, so we could sit all together. Nothing like being early to avoid mishaps. At least I thought so.
My destination would be the Chiloé Archipelago, a group of islands lying off the coast of Chile, in the Los Lagos Region. It is separated from mainland Chile by the Chacao Channel in the north, the Sea of Chiloé in the east and the Gulf of Corcovado in the southeast.
To this day I don't know for sure, or I don't remember, what my motivations to do that trip were. My original plan had always been to go up the Carretera Austral until Puerto Montt, where it ends, and from there see what life would present me. However, sometimes, being free gives you the opportunity to change the plans whenever you want. Thus, for some reason, I've decided that a trip by boat would be a great adventure.
I didn't know about Chiloé, I didn't know what to expect. All I wanted was some different exploration, away from the main land. Fortunately I would later discover that Chiloé is a small place with an incredible character. It is one of the most rainy places on planet earth and one of the most culturally rich places I've ever been.
Chiloé is derived from the Mapuche word chillwe, meaning "seagull place". Chill or chülle refers to the brown-hooded gull, and the -we suffix means 'place'. The adjective and demonym for this region is chilote in the masculine and chilota in the feminine.
If you are a broke backpacker, like me, your best bet to get to the main island (Isla Grande de Chiloé) is by crossing the Chacao Channel in the north side, it's a 30 minutes ferry that takes walkers for free. If you are coming from south you'll have to find a boat on the many cities along the way. Departure dates may be a problem though, you may not find a ticket for a near date.
I came from the south following the Carretera Austral (Ruta 7), that's why I left from Puert Cisnes, it was the only city I've found departure for a near day, which actually meant 6 days waiting. All those 6 days will be featured in a future post, since a lot of cool things happened.
With my ticket checked and bags checked. I successfuly boarded, to what was going to be my biggest boat trip. My friends were already there, and being an awesome couple they had spared a seat for me. Lovely.
- Morning duuuuudes! Prepared for the journey? - I asked, with a lot of enthusiasm.
- Yeah, I just hope I can get some sleep... - Lois said, with not so much enthusiasm and the best asleep face.
His girlfriend, Juliette, was by his side wearing a nice 'neck pillow'. Seeing that they were trying to get some sleep before the sun rises, I decided to go for a walk.
Boats really catch my attention and I'm super curious about navigation. I wanted to know every single spot on that ship; scape points, life rafts positions and how to release/operate them, life vests location and how to get them, survival suplies. I was not scared of a sinking, but just in case something happened I'd better know how to handle, right?
It was strange that people were piling up on deck, time was passing and we were not leaving the dock. I thought that maybe they were delayed, as everything in latin america. Below deck people yelling and swearing, I've stopped to check what was going on.
- Hola amigo! Is there something wrong? - I asked a man that was smoking a cigar outside.
- Yeah, the girls over there were caught drinking alcohol and making some noises. Captain asked them to leave, no 'borrachos' allowed in his ship... - The man said.
The swearing continued, evolved into girls crying and ended with the arrival of the police. One hour had passed and passengers by this time were all laying on the rails to watch the show. I felt sorry for the girls, having to leave the boat and lose the trip may have felt terrible, but rules are rules. They were crying and trying to convince the crew that they would not annoy. The passengers were tired.
- Vamos, vamos chicas! You are delaying departure! - The passengers yelled.
- Come on! Let's go, just leave! - A man yelled.
After a lot of resistance they finally gave up and drunkenly grabbed their bags to leave. The passengers clapped and finally we were able to lift the ramps and go. The next ten hours would be among rocky archipelagos, I was excited.
What do you do when you are in a boat, locked for the next half day? Well... Nothing really. You sleep, then you walk, then you sleep and you walk again, and take photos and enjoy the breeze by the deck.
Sleeping couldn't be more comfortable, the seats were wide and cozy and the swings of the boat added a lot to relax even more. Going for the first time to the bathroom was quite a funny walk, everytime you try stepping, the swings of the boat make you walk like a drunk, better not let the captain see you staggering or he would throw you in the Pacific. No 'borrachos' allowed!
Below deck, on the garages, cars and trucks were parked, one particular truck loaded with cows, which were obviously ressless and exaling a nice manure smell. On the top deck people enjoying the sun, smoking and one guy trying to do hand stands while the boat was swinging on the waves. Funny scene. Meanwhile I just couldn't sleep, everything seemed so cool; the scenary, the ship, the blue waters.
Click image to enlarge!
Click image to enlarge!
Click image to enlarge!
Along the way I'd observe and take note of every single different and cool thing; in between some islands in sheltered water a sailboat was anchored, that awakened on me the desire to live aboard. The idea of detaching from land, where I could be the one in charge, without the need of any government telling me what to do and what to pay, always sounded ideal. Seeing that boat there, quietly anchored, how I wish I could be that person. One day, I'm sure I will be.
Click image to enlarge!
During the trip a complex of structures on the sea caught my attention, so I approached an old man to ask.
- Hola señor, what are those structures on the water? - I asked.
- Those are salmoneras. To raise Salmon. - He said.
- That's interesting, so the fish basically stay inside those net cages? - I curiously asked.
- Exactly... those fuckers... that industry is fucking everything. - He angrily said.
- Hmmm, I don't get it... - I said.
- You know, that's one gigantic industry in Chile, amigo... they throw a lot of shit in there to raise those Salmon. The residue causes Marea Roja, that kills everything. - He said.
- Marea roja? - I asked.
- Yeah, it's some sort of algae, they kill the fish and ruin the seafood. If you eat something contamined by Marea Roja you'll have problems, amigo. - He said.
- Ahhhh, I understand. - I said.
I took note of what the old man had said to study the subject later. It was interesting seeing those cages all over the place, some of them looked like small docks on the sea, so large that I couldn't believe.
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Salmon farming is one of the most important industrial activities in Chile, being also the second largest producer in the world, with approximately 38% of world production for 2005, with 614 thousand tons, located only behind Norway.
At present (2011) the use of copper cages, (which has a proven anti-bacterial and antimicrobial use) is being tested in order to protect the specimens of diseases and pests, which could have positive results in early 2012 with the first harvests. However copper is a highly toxic metal for many marine species, especially during the earliest stage of its development which could have dire consequences for the still unexplored marine biodiversity of southern Chile.
"Marea Roja" is the name given to a natural phenomenon caused by the numerical increase of some microalgae in the water, which being the food of marine organisms, such as bivalve molluscs, can cause damage to the health of the people who consume them, as well as economic losses for aquaculture and extractive activity.
It is believed by many chileans, fisher men, that the Salmon farms have caused Marea Roja, by dumping waste on the water. It's a complex battle between simple fisher men against the largest industry in Chile.
After that I went to sleep, being awake since 0500 AM I was feeling really tired. Our trip continued and I only woke up when my friends shaked me, to tell that land was near.
- Land in sight!!! - I shouted on the deck. Some people laughed.
While the ship was maneuvering and the crew members were running up and down to prepare our aproach I took my travel diary to register the last moments before being on land again.
Peacefull 10 hour trip. Getting to Quellon, city known to be a little dangerous. We are not staying here, so it'll be hitchhiking time! Write again during the night.
That's how we travelled 10 hours by boat from Puerto Cisnes to Chiloé, one of the most culturaly rich islands I've been so far. Later on this trip I'd lose my friends for ever, but for that you'll have to wait for the next chapters, where I'll tell about all the craziness I've been to in Chiloé. Believe me, there were a lot!
Click image to enlarge!
Would you like to know more about Chiloé? Have you ever been there? Feel free to write a comment down below, I love interacting with you all.
I hope you've enjoyed this story. If you liked it, consider giving your upvote for a hot coffee.
~Love ya all,
Disclaimer: The author of this post is a convict broken backpacker, who has travelled more than 10.000 km hitchhiking. Following him may cause severe problems of wanderlust and inquietud. You've been warned.
I'm Arthur. I blog about Adventure Stories, Brazil, Travel, Camping & Life Experiences.
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