12/11/17
I spent almost all my money for a place to sleep, but I found a driver willing to take me to Khorog. Payment was due after I cash out some tajik somoni there.
Finding him wasn't easy as it turned out, the truck that gave me a lift yesterday brought some wares from Bishkek to Murghab, where it was loaded in cars for transporting it to the market in Khorog. And it seemed like all cars in Murghab were involved in this exciting process.
[Our loaded car]
When they finally crammed inside the car bags, boxes, women-merchants and other stuff, 2 hours passed and we left Murghab around 11. The ride was notable mostly because police checked my permit twice and we visited some hotsprings on the way. Before each police post the driver bought bread to give them bakshish - kind of customary bribe in the East.
The last part of the trip was made in darkness (again), and the most beautyful places were passed in darkness (again). But this is nothing as the worst part awaited me in Khorog where there was 2 working ATM at this hour and both refused to work with my card. The banks were closed and I still didn't have any means of communication nor money. The most infuriating part was when I discovered a hotel, with internet closed for the weekend. I hate fucking weekends and holidays, goddamn!
In the end, I accidentally found a great homestay with WiFi and a hospitable host, which promised to solve my problems with money in the morning and paid to the driver. Things seem to be getting better.
Still, while Kyrgyzstan left me great memories and a wish to get back there in the summer, eastern Tajikistan only makes me wish to leave ASAP never to return. Subjectively I rate it near Myanmar and Bangladesh.
Full gallery: https://supload.com/ByU-bTWSM