So we've set foot on Japanese land... Well, at least as the earth? Land found in Japan where it should not be — is almost impossible. And the land, in the opinion of the Japanese, should be in parks and forests. Or at least it should not be in the port. And in the port needs to be, inhuman neatly laid asphalt, curb, and customs.
Cleanliness and neatness piled on us from all sides.
The building, which is the inspection and registration, floors creak from contact with the trainers and it becomes clear that the coming week to fall from fatigue and excess alcohol in the blood can be without fear for the cleanliness of your own clothes.
Custom pass rather quickly, without inspection, all around (well, those Japanese-looking) smile and something happy. Whether that night on TV will show how the kind of thread celebrity roasts chicken, or just laughing over the fact that next week my name will sound only as "Mihiro".
And on the street the feeling is that we flew halfway across the world, and not sailed less than two hundred kilometers from the autumn of Russia. Weather in Korsakov in the morning here in Wakkanai are similar, except that the presence of precipitation. Otherwise, just some wet tropics. Warm and very very humid. A sweatshirt since the morning was relevant here turns into a burden.
What is Wakkanai.
It is a small port town in the far North closest to Sakhalin and the Japanese island of Hokkaido.
However, the proximity of Russia gives Vakkanay one feature that You are unlikely to meet even somewhere in Japan.
Duplication of signs on the Russian language is for Japan — attractions. This in Tokyo or even Sapporo will not meet. Russian sailors did their job. The Japanese, apparently tired to catch the Russian who went to the library, but appeared at the bar. To protect us from the consequences of ignorance of geography Wakkanai they bother to sign all the arrows the language of Pushkin (or his likeness).
What's the first thing to do in Japan after visiting the toilet? Of course to eat! Do not be confused by such a strange sequence. Here in Japan for our understanding do a lot of weird, inconsistent, illogical and absurd. But let us not abuse the hospitality and make the owners said.
What to eat in Japan, if You have not been in it two years? Personally for me the question is rhetorical. Only ramen! It's a magical dish of Japanese cuisine (originally Chinese, but who found in Japan a unique taste and was elevated to the category of cult) in Russian restaurants trying to imitate much less and much worse than many other Japanese dishes. Just believe the word, unless You have some particularly specific, beyond a normal person's gastronomic preferences, only then will you be able to forget the taste of this divine food. But more on that a little later, but for now a short story about the first Japanese we met on the streets of Wakkanai.
If one of Your friends was in Japan, he probably told some incredible stories about some unhealthy desire of the Japanese to help foreigners to solve their small problems like "How do you come?..", "How do I get here to the station?.." and the like. Don't believe these stories! In fact, there are no words that can convey the space, the degree of responsiveness of the Japanese in relation to the country's guests, which actually exists. This experience is impossible to convey in words, it can only be experienced.
Believe it or not, but this story happened with the FIRST resident we met on the street Wakkanai to ask where the nearest Ramen restaurant.
And then happened exactly what usually and tell stories about the Japanese.
Man forgot where he was going and why in the middle of the day and just simply took us to escort you to the restaurant that he knows and judging by the expression recommends.
But that's not the problem, the restaurant was closed for a break. Here, I have no doubt the man felt an overwhelming sense of personal guilt for the incident incident and decided to improve the karma of finding other suitable to our lunch place.
Here and muzhichek, part of the life we stole. Thank you, my good man!
For 15 minutes he took us through the streets of Wakkanai, he looked in a couple of places, and discussed there with the chefs menu, made them bow down to us and apparently to apologize that they do not have the needed meals. The result of such negotiations with the local chefs and waiters he found us ramanou. Discussed with the chef all the details of our future dinner, and only then, bowing to us once 10-15, sailed away with a happy face to continue, certainly enough regular and our standards boring life. Something to tell the grandkids! He drove through the city two large white people! And that's not sarcasm. For most Japanese this event. Not too often whites suddenly burst into the lives of ordinary Japanese with questions and requests and give a chance to their outstanding affability.
Well, that's actually an ordinary picture for a Japanese restaurant. Except that the evening will be added hungry Suleimanov ("white collar"), who will try not to splash the broth on a white shirt. Although it may not be. A white shirt, if you strongly want, you can buy for 300 yen (120 rubles) with some small shops.
In any restaurant, regardless of menu size and You will be offered ice water (at the sushi bar usually has a free green tea as soon as you dip your butt in the chair.
In typically sweltering Japan it is a pleasant thing.
Menu without Arabic numerals. But really, it's not scary. Ramen is unlikely to cost more than we are now willing to pay for it.
Incidentally, in Japan is not that uncommon menu without Arabic numerals. But not so often to stay hungry.
That's actually the subject of my lust. Left Sauraman right Mooreman. Both portions 1300 yen (520 rubles for two). One portion is enough to eat 100-pound man. And the taste is divine.
Mountains of manga and Newspapers — a constant attribute of most catering places.
And here is the kitchen from behind the bar, where he manages the Japanese sweet grandma. Cook everything in front of you and quickly.
Delicious — just stupid!
On the left, on the wall of the opinions of others, no less enthusiastic but more remarkable than I individuals.
If in our manner, something like: "delicious Ramen sho kapets!", and the signature "lion Leshchenko". Well, or a Bloated stock, ready to surrender to the chef!", signed "Pamela Anderson". And so on.
The hills with dense greenery, clean streets, asphalt, concrete, simultaneously similar and quite different at home. Bedroom provincial Japan.
Me personally, I like the architectural style of most Japanese non-residential buildings: a small rectangular tile, rectangular shape of houses. Nothing special, but neat and pleasing to the eye.
A local resident with a towel on his head. No, it does not compress the head does not hurt him and he didn't run away from the Barber shop without paying for the hair wash. Don't ask why he's in a towel. But rest assured, he to this question is clear and understandable (at least to him) answer.
For those who have not been to Japan, keep in mind, the Japanese concrete jungle — they are not only concrete, but also the jungle. What Japanese cities little greenery — absolute myth. In my opinion, the vegetation in our Russian cities are much smaller. But in Japan, any free piece of land are planted or grass, or bushes, or trees. This is besides the fact that Japan abounds with wonderful parks, which to us is often only envy. But I still will tell in detail later.
Two years ago I suggested that the gardener is the most demanded profession in Japan. How else can you think, when virtually all the streets in the bushes and lawns look like this:
Meanwhile, it's time to say goodbye to Wakenaam, we have a six-hour evening bus trip to Sapporo along the West coast of Hokkaido.
Buses and other public transport in Japan moves with phenomenal precision, are beyond the understanding of the Russian people. And if the schedule says. The bus departs at 16.45, it leaves at 16.45 and nothing else. And if Your watch shows something different, it means only that You have to reset the clock.
The bus moves on already in the last few hours is not a stranger to the streets of Wakkanai and I'm willing to continue to try and try Japan taste.