Travelling with Stabilo #3: Destination - Hallstatt, Day 3
Check out the previous two parts of my travel story here: Part 1 Part 2
I woke up to a glorious morning. There was not a cloud in the sky. After a quick breakfast I found myself strolling down the lake front again. I was quite addicted to the morning tranquillity there. It is amazing how the weather changes the beauty of Lake Hallstatt. On a clear morning like this, the lake lost some of its grandeur and mysteriousness but became more beautiful and charming.
My bus arrived just after 8am. Today’s destination: Dachstein Salzkammergut on the opposite side of Lake Hallstatt, towering behind the township of Obertraun. Dachstein is a mountain range located in the Salzammergut lake district of Austria. Over 2000m above sea level, the Dachstein ranges also host a number of glaciers, and is popular for its alpine hiking tracks. Not being a hardcore hiker, I was only committed to tackle one of the most gentle tracks in the region, the Heilbronn Circular Trail.
Map sourced from Dachstein Salzkammergut website
My bus stopped at the Krippenstein-Seilbahn ground station just a bit south of Obertraun. After getting the entrance tickets, I got on the cable car which took me 2100m up to the summit station where the trail starts. The landscape was a striking contrast to the lush scenery of Hallstattsee. Here, on the top of Krippenstein the landscape was barren and grey, almost like I have landed on the moon. The Dachstein Glacier stood before me, retreated significantly due to the summer heat but still magnificent. I followed the gravel trail through the mountain landscape. There wasn’t much apart from rocks, stones and more rocks. Occasionally you would see little stone stacks probably built by other hikers before me. Here and there, the trail opened up to a great view of the valley below and the mountains beyond. I walked on.
The midpoint of the trail was the Heilbronn cross, and I reached there within about 1 ½ hours, just in time for lunch. The cross was erected to remember 10 students and 3 teachers from Heilbronn, Germany, who made a trip to the Krippenstein in 1954 and got lost and died after a sudden change in weather. The cross also serves as a resting point for hikers, with natural rock platforms to allow hikers to sit, eat their lunch, and take in the amazing view of the mountain range.
Past the Heilbronn cross the landscape dramatically changed. Green bushes and alpine flowers started to appear on the trail. As I was walking along I suddenly heard a bell ringing. It turns out to be a bunch of sheep, just gazing on the mountain grass. Why would someone let their sheep roam on a mountain range in the middle of nowhere?
After another two hours walk I finally reached the end of the trail, at the Gjaidalm cable car station. I was parched as it was much hotter than I expected and I finished my bottle of water long time ago. Luckily, there was a vending machine at the station and I bought a bottle of cola to quench my thirst.
I took the cable car back to summit station, and was greeted by hordes of tourists. I followed them, for they were all heading to the famous five-finger, a hand shaped platform giving a stunning view of the Salzammergut region and beyond. It was supposed to be an easy walk, but my hike in the morning took a toll on my muscles, and it was an uphill struggle to get back to the cable car station.
When I was back in Hallstatt, it was still early and the warm summer sun was just right for a sunbathe and a swim in the lake. The lake was chilly but refreshing. It was quite deep too so I just swam near the shore for a bit before I climbed back out, and spend my last afternoon in Hallstatt enjoying my last bit of Austrian sunshine.
Unfortunately all things must come to an end and so it was the end of my Hallstatt stay. Three days was probably enough to see all there is to see, but definitely not enough to feel and live the Hallstatt way. I will definitely return one day, probably during winter, where I could see the town again in its snow-covered glory.
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