Unbeknown to residents and visitors alike lies the 'Narnia' of Bangkok, Bang Krachao, or otherwise known as 'The Green Lungs of Bangkok'. This hidden gem is an island created by the Chao Phraya River wrapping around the land and a canal cutting if off at it's westerly sector. So this week's mountain biking journey takes us just over the river, leaving the hustle and bustle of the city for some unwinding after a hard week's work in the classroom!
If Bang Krachao is 'Narnia', then the ferry across is the wardrobe, which transports you to this wonderful green oasis, juxtaposed against the heat absorbing pollution and concrete of the city. There are two main points to cross the river by boat, one is 'Ta Reua Klong Toey' or Klong Toey pier, which can be accessed via taxi using the Rama 4 road. The crossing costs about 5 baht, but the boats are small, the size of rowing boats and can be tricky to get into with a bike. The second option is to go to 'Ta Reua Bang Na' which translates to - Bang Na Pier. This is the easier of the two as you can ride your bike straight onto the boat and its main function is to ferry motorbike riders across the river. The ferry costs 7 baht with a bike, or 2 baht on foot.
View of the city pointing east from the Green Lungs
When travelling to this sanctuary I usually set off on my journey at 6:30 am, creeping out of the house trying not to wake others, as I embark upon my quest to reach the lush vegetation of the green getaway. Leaving early allows missing the turbulent bullying of oppressive Bangkok traffic. Reaching the Pier is a big relief after dealing with four-wheeled smog spitters and two-wheeled terrifiers!
Each time I ride up the exit ramp a huge sense or freedom arises, knowing that I no-longer have to deal with any menaces of the road and welcomed into the green palms, mangroves, temples, coconuts and expanse of elevated cycling paths.
If you are visiting, a bike can easily be rented when you arrive onto the island from either of the piers. The bikes opposite the Ban Na pier are about 70 baht for the day, but tend to be a bit old and are just for cruising. Where as the bikes opposite the Klong Toey Pier are mountain bikes, but will set you back around 150-200 (I would go for the mountain bikes, as they are a lot more stable and fun to ride!)
Examples of the mountain bikes available to rent
Once onto the island there are a few cycling options to take, one of the most popular is Sri Nakhon Kuenkhan Park. The park is a 100 acre space made up of ponds, walking paths, bike tracks and a handful of pavilions to escape the abrasive rays of the midday sun.
A fallen pavilion engulfed by algae
If you look carefully there is a high chance that you will bump into one of the many gentle giants.
Monitor lizard around the 2 metre mark
We didn't have a measuring tape, so I decided to make myself useful!
Outside of the park there is a vast network of sleepy roads and my favourite riding spots are the hundreds of elevated paths, which shoot off the sides of the roads in to the lush green canopy.
The paths are elevated as they lift you up from water, allowing you to weave through the mangroves. Rolling along the paths and flying through the greenery really allows to take in the nature and some fresh(er) air than the smog filled city. You can pick up some good speed on the paths, but there a few things to be aware of:
When they are wet they can be extremely slippery, which could easily create a face to cement situation!
Cyclists are not the only users, most of the locals love to zip along these paths on their motorbikes, using them as shortcuts and can be travelling quite fast.
Some of the paths have no rails on the sides, so you could easily become a swamp monster, if your concentration slips! But that is part of the adventure that explorers love!
Some of the more adventurous paths!
The paths and the park are fantastic riding spots, providing time to be one with nature, listen to an array of exotic sounds in the near distance of the jungle and let your imagination do the rest! In my next instalment I will wheel you to the fighting fish gallery, floating market and a few other hidden gems!
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(All photos in this post are originals)
Keep exploring!