This is an authorized translation in English of a post in French by @japon: Ryoan-ji, l’étonnant jardin de pierres à Kyoto
As my primary language is not English, there are probably some mistakes in my translation.
Remember that the person that speaks here is NOT me, Vincent Celier (@vcelier), but @japon, a French guy.
Several hundred meters from Kinkaku-ji and its golden pavilion, is another temple well known to tourists. The Ryoan-ji is famous for its garden in which are positioned 15 rocks, in a way so special that it is impossible to see them all at the same time.
This temple is the subject of many speculations, it was built at an uncertain date, and its designer is also unknown. Enough to raise a certain mystery around this place and to arouse the desire to discover it.
I went there with some trepidation, because it is often mentioned that the place is crowded with tourists. The visit begins with a walk in a large park, with some small shrines, a statue of the Buddha. It's quiet, the atmosphere is peaceful and relaxing.
A large stone staircase, bordered with maples, leads to the entrance of the mysterious garden.
I enter a reception room, slightly dark and I take off my shoes. I take a few steps on the very old wooden floor, the garden is discovered. I remain speechless.
Luckily, there are not many people. Some groups of students arrive, and then leave. I sit on the edge of the steps and contemplate. The Ryoan-ji is not very big. Surrounded by large earth walls that contrast with the trees in the background.
On the ground, an immaculate white gravel, perfectly raked. Rocks are laid on moss beds. The gravel symbolizes the sea, the rocks the islands, we are in the imagination. I stay for a long time minutes to watch.
I count the rocks: one, two, ..., twelve, thirteen. There are two missing. I move in a corner of the garden, and start counting again. Fourteen, there is always one missing. There is always a big one that hides a smaller one. It's ingenious, it's disturbing by the attention to detail and control of the elements in space.
The weather is gray, and I find the place extremely melancholic. I also felt a great emptiness, this confused impression of being in another world. I no longer thought about my problems, my eyes and my thoughts were lost long minutes on these stones. I think I could stay for hours sitting in front of this garden, as it invites reflection. At one point I found myself alone, no sound except that of the rustle of the foliage of the surrounding trees. I really let go, I was somewhere else.
Finally, I get up to take the time to look at the other beautiful parts of the Ryoan-ji. The garden is right next to the Hojo, the former residence of the priest. The interior has beautiful paintings on sliding doors.
At the back of the building, there are small gardens in which moss is omnipresent. A small tsukubai pond and its Shishi-odoshi. It's a completely opposite atmosphere to the dry garden on the other side.
What more can you say about Ryoan-ji, except that this garden leaves a confused impression. You have to take the time to soak up its special atmosphere. You must take the time to let your gaze slip between the rocks, on the walls, on this old floor that bears the marks of a distant past and the signs of wear of thousands of people who like me have come to sit there for a moment…
-- @japon
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02: Tokyo, overcrowded city? Really? by @japon
03: Are the Japanese too disciplined? by @japon
04: Going to Japan without speaking Japanese? by @japon
05: Ueno, more than just a big park in Tokyo, by @japon
06: Asakusa, diving in the heart of Tokyo's historic district, by @japon
07: Ameyoko, Ueno's colorful market, by @japon
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09: Climb the steps of Atago Jinja Shrine in Tokyo, by @japon
10: Hama Rikyu, an exceptional park in the heart of Tokyo, by @japon
11: Jimbocho, old books and tempura, by @japon
12: Shinjuku Gyoen Park and the best burger in the world!, by @japon
13: One night in Shibuya, by @japon
14: Takeshita dori : this little street dedicated to fashion (and good crepes), by @japon
15: They lie to you about Kyoto, by @japon
16: The temples and secret garden of Higashi in Kyoto, by @japon
17: Kinkaku-ji, the temple of the Golden Pavilion in Kyoto, by @japon