Travelling with Stabilo #22: An Evening in Florence
经纬游踪 #22: 佛罗伦萨的傍晚
We arrived into Firenze just before lunch. After a much-needed rest at our gorgeous hotel, by the time we got out to explore, it was late afternoon. We stayed on the south banks of the River Arno, about two blocks from the riverside. We followed the Arno for a leisurely. It was winter, cold and gloomy, and the sky was already dark enough that street lights started to come on. We walked along the river, admiring at the unique architecture and buildings where shops almost hang out onto the river. Eventually, we arrived at Ponte Vecchio, the famous bridge that just looked like a massive building spreading across the river. The Ponte Vecchio had been the a market bridge for centuries, first started selling meat and then converted into shops selling gold. Even now, the bridge is filled with jewellery stores that are stocked with Florentine hand-crafted gold jewelleries.
我们是在中午时分抵达佛罗伦萨。在酒店休息后再出来逛的时候已经是傍晚。从酒店到阿诺河边只是两个街角的路程。在这个下雨的冬日傍晚，街灯早已开着，映照着阿诺河边的小平房。沿着河边走，一路上看着沿岸这些特别的意式建筑，古老的平房，商店像是悬挂在河面上一样。不远处我们看到了阿诺河的老桥，像一堆违规建筑一样从河的一端伸展到另一边。这条知名的老桥从中世纪就充斥着不同的商店, 从而贩卖肉类为主的肉店慢慢演变成卖金的金铺。现在，桥上基本上都是珠宝店，陈列着佛罗伦萨人引以为傲的手工金银手饰和宝石。
Above the shops there is a sheltered pathway that goes all the way across the bridge. This Vasari Corridor was built in the Renaissance, and used to be a private corridor used by royalties. It was said that Hitler once crossed here and was so impressed with this special bridge that he ordered the bridge to be left intact when they were retreating out of the city. While J was busy looking at the different gold jewellery and gemstones, I spend quite some time catching the flow of the people and the modern vibe of this historical bridge.
走到桥上，可以发现店铺上层有一条长长的走廊。这条瓦萨利走廊在文艺复兴时所建，是当时皇室贵族的专用走廊。相传希特勒在这条走廊走过时为老桥的风貌所折服，并命令军队对这桥加以保护。这让老桥成为佛罗伦萨唯一一条没有被德军在撤退时摧毁的桥梁。一到桥上，J就被手饰珠宝吸引着，而我就利用了她逛街的时间把这古桥上的人流和现代气息拍了下来。
The jewelleries were indeed very beautiful but we did not end up buying any. We continue our journey back to the south side of Arno, in the area of the Pitti Palace which was known for the many unique art and craft shops that Firenze is so proud of. On our way we saw a dessert shop, with pastry and cake that showcases the artistic talent of the Florentine in the form of gourmet creations. We went into a shop called Il Papiro, which sells a range of handmade wooden, porcelain and ceramic artwork and decorations, as well as high quality crafting paper. By the time we stepped back out of the shop, it was completely dark. The Pitti Palace loomed majestically across the street. The Palace was originally designed by Filippo Brunelleschi, the same Renaissance Architect who designed and constructed the majestic dome of the Santa Maria del Fiore. The palace was also the Medici families’ main residence quite sometime, and hosts a lot of historical paintings and sculptures. Unfortunately it was already closed for the night.
店里的珠宝的确很美，然而我们什么都没有买就离开了。我们穿过老桥往南走，准备到彼提宫附近的小街上逛。这个小区的艺术小作坊十分有名，贩卖着各试各样的艺术品，手工艺品和皮革品。在路上我们经过了一家甜点店，里面精美的蛋糕和甜点充分的展示了佛罗伦萨人的艺术细胞。我们走进了一家十分精致的小艺术品店，里面有十分可爱的手工木雕和手制的陶瓷小精品，还有很漂亮的工艺纸。当我们逛完回到街上，黑夜已经降临。街道对面的彼提宫雄伟地在街灯下屹立着。彼提宫是文艺复兴时的建造百花大教堂圆顶的建筑名家布鲁内莱斯基设计，在十五世纪时成为了美第奇家族的大宅。彼提宫里收藏了数量众多价值连城的名画和雕像。可惜博物已经关门，我们无缘观赏。
Backtracking ourselves to the other side of Arno we walked towards the old town centre marked by the Palazzo Vecchio. Along the way we saw wine bars where local chats merrily over tapas and glasses of wine. Palazzo Vecchio stood tall in the Piazza della Signoria, and used to be the main administrative building where the elites governed back at Renaissance times. You can even see the replica David in front of the Palace, marking where the original David by Michelangelo stood in the Piazza, signifying the freedom and determination of the Florentines before it was moved to the Accademia Gallery for protections. Beside the Palazzo is the Fountain of Neptune, all lighted up blue and pretty. We were lucky that there was an open-air exhibition right next to the Palazzo just in front of the Uffizi where they were showcasing marble and bronze statues from various periods, some of which dating back before 100 AD.
从彼提宫原路返回，我们过桥后继续往北走前往古城中心的旧宫。路上有好几家葡萄酒吧，酒吧里的人们吃着塔帕斯小菜，喝着红酒，与三五知己谈笑欢生。旧宫坐落于领主广场，是中世纪统治佛罗伦萨的贵族们的市政厅。旧宫门外的大卫像是复制品，真正的大卫像被收藏于艺术学院之前曾经挺立在这里，象征着佛罗伦萨人对自由的响往和不屈不挠的精神。旧宫旁有个海皇喷泉，在蓝色彩灯底下显得份外优美。我们的运气不错，刚刚赶上了一个露天艺术展，在旧宫旁的乌菲兹艺术馆外的小平台陈列了多座历史悠久的雕像，有些古罗马雕像已经有差不多两千年的历史。
We kept going north, towards the Cathedral. Even though it was a rainy evening, the streets were still filled with people, both locals and tourists seeking for a place to eat or just generally enjoying the night. We walked past a number of chocolatiers, selling chocolate and gelato. Even though it was cold, we could resist the temptation of the famous ice-cream and stopped for some. Eventually we reached the architecture masterpiece of the Cathedral Santa Maria del Fiore and the surrounding complex. Even at night, the building looked magnificent, the blocky and geometrical walls really stood out with its combination of black and white tiles illuminated by strobe lights. The façade of the cathedral towered over us with the Bell tower Giotto's Bell Tower Campanile di Giotto standing tall next to it, showcasing the fine gothic style design that dominates the majority of the building apart from the classically design orange dome on the top whose completion marked the dawn of the renaissance. The small building next to the cathedral, Battistero di San Giovanni (The Baptistery of St. John) followed essentially the same design, with a pair of Bronze doors known as the Gates of Paradise made by Lorenzo Ghiberti, another symbol that is related to the start of the Early Renaissance.
我们继续向北，往百花大教堂出发。虽然是个寒冷的夜晚，街道上还有很多游人，寻找着美食和美景。一路上我们看到了很多巧克力店和意式雪糕店，最后还是抵不住诱惑买了两杯作为饭后甜点。吃完雪糕，转过几个街角，壮丽的百花大教堂突然出现在眼前。就算是晚上，这文艺复兴时期的建筑杰作还是那么壮观。墙上的几何形状黑白相间，在射灯的照亮下特别醒目。走到教堂面前，大教堂的前墙和旁边的钟楼在看上去非常雄伟，上面展示着哥特式建筑特有的设计和图案。虽然教堂主体是以哥特式设计为主，教堂上橘红色的圆顶却是罗马式的经典设计，它的建成也正式拉开了文艺复兴的序幕。教堂旁的圣若望洗礼堂的外墙设计和教堂相似，而洗礼堂的东门为洛伦佐·吉贝尔蒂设计的青铜门，被誉为天堂之门，是开启文艺复兴的另一重要标志。
It was quite late already so we walked back towards our hotels. The back streets are filled with little shops and restaurants that are full of character. Some were already close, but some were still open, welcoming travellers and locals to have a good time sheltered from the cold night.
夜深了，我们也踏上了归途。在回酒店的路上，不少店铺已经打烊，也有还是灯火通明的餐馆，吸引着夜出的游人。情侣们喝着红酒，在路边的小酒吧里谈情说爱。
Eventually we crossed the Arno once more, making a full circle as we admire the beauty of the Ponte Vecchio from afar lighted up by humble and gentle street lights. Tomorrow, we will explore, seeking out gems and beauty is this amazing historical city.
我们再次穿过阿诺河，走了一个循环。在桥上最后一次欣赏老桥在夜色和街灯下的景色。明天，我们将再次出发，继续在这个美丽古城寻找人文瑰宝和绝色美景。
