Dedicated to Every Surfer Who Knows What it Means to Commit!
Photo courtesy of Johannes Andersson and http://unsplash.com
Making The Drop
You stroke like mad...
A wave builds. Rising higher and higher behind you, you stroke like mad, and hope with all your heart that you will be able to make the drop.
The drop is big.
The drop is great.
The drop is sheer speed, gravity and matter.
The drop is a feeling in the pit of your gut.
You talk about the drop all day.
You think about the drop endlessly.
You will dream about the drop tonight.
You remember the best drops for a lifetime.
You are a fighter pilot, falling from the sky towards your target.
You are a hawk, stooping toward your prey.
You drop,
tucking in and trimming and digging your rail into the face to control your descent.
For you have delivered my soul from death, my eyes from tears, my feet from stumbling... - Psalm 116:8
Do you like to surf? Did you enjoy this post? Talk to me; your comments are my encouragement!
More surfing stories:
The Ocean; God's Finest Invention?
It's Here; Come Ride My Beautiful Magic Carpet
Paddling Out -- The Story
The Humorous Truth; Willpower and Cold Water
Why Do Jerks Seem To Get the Best Waves?
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