So far, Nash and I have found a remarkable amount of solitude on Maui's east side.
We got an early start and drove in on the quicker southern "backside" road that cuts through Maui's dry side. We sail along, tooting our little horn to warn nonexistent oncoming traffic on the one-lane blind turns.
Woah, it's another vehicle!
Before long, we've made it to the coastal section of Haleakala National Park.
There, we duck into the bamboo forest along the Pipiwai trail to Waimoku Falls. The stalks rattle in the wind. It sounds like a storm of those little Kodama forest spirits with the clattering heads in Princess Mononoke, and I imagine them leaping from pole to pole and spying on us with mismatched eyes.
After the hike, we slide into a cool and empty pool in O'heo Gulch and splash around under a little waterfall.
I'm not complaining, but where are all the other tourists?
For breakfast, we purchase some sticky-sweet pineapple banana bread out of the back of a truck in the Wailua Falls pullout just as the vendor is setting out his wares. It is the BEST banana bread I've ever tasted, and I don't say this just because my last meal was one of those weird overpriced snack boxes on the plane the day before.
Further down the road (location undisclosed), we pull off again and set off through a cow pasture, following a local tip. The cows line up to stare at us with wild-eyed curiosity, shying and snorting when Nash beckons them closer.
We continue walking to a cliff edge and look down on an isolated black sand beach.
This beach doesn't even have a name to my knowledge, but here of all places we find we're no longer alone.
I'm surprised to see a slim, tan local girl emerge from the ocean and walk toward her (also gorgeous and female) friend.
At this distance, it takes a couple seconds for me to realize the obvious: "Oh, they're naked."
Now we're in an uncomfortable position, because I want to head down to that crescent of black sand, naked girls or no. But my boyfriend is standing next to me with a DSLR camera around his neck, which probably won't go over well. He doesn't have his contacts in, so he can't even see what he's missing.
While we're debating what to do, the strangers put on their swimsuits and climb the rope back topside. We exchange awkward greetings. I feel guilty about scaring them off, but it doesn't stop me from grabbing the rope as soon as they're out of sight and lowering myself down to the now-empty beach for a good frolic.
Within minutes, I too feel the itch to abandon my swimsuit. I think it's something about being in a secluded cove surrounded by 100 foot cliffs, lured by the shush of ocean over black pebbles.
That, and the fact that my bikini is old, saggy, and frickin uncomfortable. Later, waves will snatch it off at the crowded and definitely-not-nude Ka'anapali Beach, but here I take it off with intention.
My swimsuit is on the sand and I am in the ocean. This is what freedom feels like.
Shoutout to Nash for letting me post his amazing butt on the internet!
Road to Hana Highlights
(counterclockwise, the way we drove it)
- The Backside Road
Despite the warnings, we did not find this road at all difficult on a dry sunny day. The absence of traffic in the early morning made it less stressful than the main Road to Hana! - Pipiwai Trail to Waimoku Falls
Located in Haleakala National Park Kipahulu, which requires a $10 pass that can also be used at Haleakala's summit within 3 days. - Pools of 'Ohe'o
At same site as the Pipiwai Trail. - Red Sand Beach
Short hike to a picturesque little cove. - Wai'anapanapa State Park
Alternative to the "secret" black sand beach we found, plus caves. - Coconut Glen's Ice Cream
Super delicious vegan ice cream. - Na'ili'ili Haele
We didn't have enough time to do this popular hike to more waterfalls, but it looks awesome!
Thanks for reading! I'm trying out a series of shorter travel moments - all words and photos are mine. This was from a brief vacation to visit my cousin who lives on Maui and to celebrate my parents' 30th anniversary with their best friends who live on Kauai, so it's extra touristy! Let me know your skinny dipping stories in the comments!
- Katie, @therovingreader