Located next to "The Switzerland of Central America", Costa Rica; we have two side by side countries, yet worlds apart when it comes to value and affordability. San Juan del Sur, is a little gem of a backpacker paradise, and rates well on my Backpacker Travel Score, of 1-5 points.
Backpacker Travel Score = 3.5
Affordability= 4
Food= 3
Culture = 3
Safety = 4
Activities = 3.5
Hotel Value= 4
Transportation = 4
When entering Nicaragua from Costa Rica, you will instantly feel as if everything just went on sale 50 to 75 percent off, with no sacrifice in quality. Water went from 2 dollars a litter, to one dollar a gallon! San Juan del Sur can be done easily for less than twenty dollars a day.
The people of this area are laid back, hard working, and family oriented. The locals are happy to see the tourist dollar come to town. What used to be a sleepy fishing village with not much opportunity is now a happening backpacker hot spot, with new businesses popping up regularly.
The main religion in the country is Catholicism and the "Nicas" are at a crossroads between the new age street culture and keeping to their conservative values; which differentiates them from neighboring countries who sport much higher crime rates.
San Juan del Sur is located on the South Western Coast of Nicaragua, it's the most touristed part of the country and is frequented by surf enthusiast from around the world. To the north and south there are many lovely beaches to enjoy. Surfing, sun bathing, partying, exploring near-by beaches, and hiking to the giant statue of Jesus Christ looking over the town are the main activities to take advantage of.
The food in Nicaragua is quite simple; grilled meat with a cabbage salad and side of rice, potato, plantain, or Yucca is typical, and will cost about 3 - 5 dollars. You can usually find a homemade chili sauce on the table to spice things up. In town there are an array of western style restaurants catering to the tourist, but expect to pay more.
The most economical way to eat, is take a 10 minute walk up the road to "Poli" the local supermarket, who's slogan in Spanish reads "Welcome to the Lowest Prices". Most hostels offer a kitchen that can be used. This will save you big and certainly help keep you on budget.
I recommend staying at Paco's Apartments; located one block back from the bus stop/market area. Here, friendly Paco will rent you an apartment by the day, week, or month. After negotiating I paid 8 dollars per night for a weeks stay. You will have you own kitchen and patio, very comfortable. Hostels are generally 6 to 12 dollars for a shared dorm and more for a private room. Negotiation goes a long way in San Juan del Sur.
To get here, I recommend taking the chicken bus. They are safe, easy, and will cost you pennies on the dollar. Once in town, you can walk from one side to the other in 10 minutes. To visit near-by beaches there are plenty of transportation options; bus, bicycle, taxi, but the most liberating is to rent a moped outfitted with a surfboard holster!
If you are a budget travel you will enjoy this place. You can get an all included apartment for about 200 dollars a month, and probably live on 300-400 a month; no wonder there is a rapidly growing retirement community from North America. With great weather, fun activities, and a youthful backpacker spirit; San Juan del Sur is an excellent place to spend some time and I highly recommend it!
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