This is an authorized translation in English of a post in French by @japon: Makis, sanctuaire Yasaka-jinja et parc Maruyama
As my primary language is not English, there are probably some mistakes in my translation.
Remember that the person that speaks here is NOT me, Vincent Celier (@vcelier), but @japon, a French guy.
After a long walk in the Higashiyama district east of Kyoto, return to Gion to go to the small Isuzu restaurant. As I told you in my previous article, this is a small restaurant in maki that my Japanese teacher had recommended to me. It only opens at noon, and closes when their stock of fresh fish of the day is exhausted. The day before I arrived a little late, but I do not intend to be caught two times in a row.
The restaurant is right in front of Yasaka-jinja, a well-known Kyoto sanctuary to which I will be heading later. But before that, I pass the Isuzu door, the inside is all in length. I am asked if I am alone, there is a little waiting, I sit on a small bench next to the entrance.
In front of me, the chef prepares the maki. For the customers of the restaurant but also to take away. The maki rolls are wrapped and stacked on the counter waiting for customers to pick them up. I really like this traditional atmosphere.
Then comes my turn, I sit at a table and they give me the menu. This is definitely not a tourist restaurant because the menu is only in Japanese, written with kanji that I have trouble reading. Seeing my dismay, a young Japanese sitting close to me asks me if I need help!
We exchange a few words in Japanese and he explains that Isuzu is a very traditional restaurant and they serve maki with a very specific recipe. He advises me to take an assortment.
You do not notice this in the photo, but the plate is normal size; the maki are huge. It must be 4 to 5 centimetres in diameter. I have two types of maki, the first with herring, and the second with vegetables, herbs and a slightly sweet product that I have not been able to identify (maybe tofu?)
First bite, and at that moment my face had to light up with a big smile. It's absolutely delicious. What is striking is the fish taste which is very strong. In particular the maki with herring. The taste explodes in the mouth. These are certainly the best maki I ever ate.
The price is reasonable: 1500 yen for the 8 big maki.
With a full stomach, I cross the main street to go to the Yasaka-jinja. It is an emblematic place of Kyoto, by its architecture but also because it is often a meeting point to walk later in the neighborhood.
The main entrance, with its big red door, faces the Shijo-dori, one of the main shopping streets of the former imperial capital. The sanctuary is dedicated to Susano, the god of the oceans. Many Japanese come to ring the bell to attract the good graces of the deity.
This sanctuary is beautiful with its central building and paper lanterns that float in the wind. But it's mostly in the evening that I find the place just magical. The lights put so much in value the red color, the lanterns. There is a subdued atmosphere, calm, relaxing.
Yasaka-jinja is right next to the large Maruyama Park, which is famous for its sakura cherry blossoms. Between the sanctuary and the park, street vendors offer food and souvenirs.
But it is also a park worthy of interest apart from this springtime effervescence. Large alleys go around basins, with its small traditional houses. Young Japanese people discuss, couples are walking around.
After this moment of relaxation, I still have some free time, I catch the first bus that passes, not knowing where he will lead me. But this spontaneous and unforeseen side is also part of the trip.
-- @japon
01: Travel diary in Japan, by @japon
02: Tokyo, overcrowded city? Really? by @japon
03: Are the Japanese too disciplined? by @japon
04: Going to Japan without speaking Japanese? by @japon
05: Ueno, more than just a big park in Tokyo, by @japon
06: Asakusa, diving in the heart of Tokyo's historic district, by @japon
07: Ameyoko, Ueno's colorful market, by @japon
08: Tsukiji, the largest fish market in the world, by @japon
09: Climb the steps of Atago Jinja Shrine in Tokyo, by @japon
10: Hama Rikyu, an exceptional park in the heart of Tokyo, by @japon
11: Jimbocho, old books and tempura, by @japon
12: Shinjuku Gyoen Park and the best burger in the world!, by @japon
13: One night in Shibuya, by @japon
14: Takeshita dori : this little street dedicated to fashion (and good crepes), by @japon
15: They lie to you about Kyoto, by @japon
16: The temples and secret garden of Higashi in Kyoto, by @japon
17: Kinkaku-ji, the temple of the Golden Pavilion in Kyoto, by @japon
18: Ryoan-ji, the amazing stone garden in Kyoto, by @japon
19: The Ninna-ji Temple and its extraordinary gardens, by @japon
20: Kyoto Gyoen, the Imperial Palace Park, by @japon
21: Nishiki Market: A Must in Kyoto, by @japon
22: Ginkaku-ji, the temple of the silver pavilion in Kyoto, by @japon
23: Meditate on the path of philosophy, by @japon
24: Nanzen-ji, its impressive gate and two gardens, by @japon
25: Heian-jinju: the big shrine and its garden that I almost missed, by @japon
26: Eikan-do, the temple of the momiji maples in Kyoto, by @japon
27: Kodai-ji, a Kyoto temple dedicated to a woman's love for her husband, by @japon
28: Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka, the streets of Higashiyama, by @japon
29: Kiyomizu-dera, the temple of pure water in Kyoto, by @japon
30: Tofuku-ji: the maple lookout point, by @japon